To coincide with the unveiling of the new Casino Royale Collection, Turnbull & Asser Creative Director Roberto Menichetti joins journalist Rob Crossan to explore the House’s enduring relationship with 007 and the evolution of the tuxedo.

From more than six decades of Bond to the enduring codes of black tie, their conversation considers how tradition continues to evolve, and why true elegance has little need to announce itself.

Could you tell us a bit about the story behind your James Bond Collection and how it has evolved into the upcoming Casino Royale collection?

"The relationship between Turnbull & Asser and James Bond dates back to Dr. No in 1962, when the film’s director turned to the Turnbull & Asser team in Jermyn Street to create bespoke shirts for Bond’s screen debut, beginning an association that would help shape the character’s sartorial identity for years to come.
I believe this relationship has lasted so long because there is a very natural affinity between the two worlds: Bond and Turnbull & Asser share a sense of discretion, precision and self-assurance – a very British form of elegance that does not need to be overtly displayed.
The opportunity presented by this evolution of the James Bond Collection led us to return to the archives, to study the original garments, documents, photographs and references from the films. With the anniversary of Casino Royale, however, I felt we could take this conversation a step further.
For me, Casino Royale represents a particularly interesting moment in Bond’s history. In this movie there’s a new physicality and a new modernity to the character, whilst keeping that essential elegance intact. I find this tension extremely relevant today.
So I wasn’t interested in simply replicating something from 2006. I wanted to understand what made that look so effective and then I wanted to distil its essence – the proportions, the fabric, the construction, the relationship between the shirt, the bow tie and the evening suit.
It must be unmistakably Bond and unmistakably Turnbull & Asser, but at the same time it must feel entirely natural to wear today. This is the balance that really interests me: modernising whilst respecting the archive without becoming nostalgic about it."

How far back does Turnbull & Asser’s history go when it comes to the tuxedo? Can you tell us a bit about the historical context?

"Turnbull & Asser was founded in 1885, so the House has grown in tandem with the development of the modern British dinner jacket.
The dinner jacket itself has a deeply British history. Its origins are generally associated with the Prince of Wales, the future Edward VII, who in the nineteenth century began wearing a shorter evening jacket at Sandringham as a less formal alternative to the tailcoat. By the early twentieth century, and particularly during the 1920s, the dinner jacket had become an established part of men’s evening wear.
Turnbull & Asser developed precisely within this world. Naturally, the House is best known for its shirts, but eveningwear has always been part of its aesthetic – evening shirts, bow ties, formal accessories and tailoring. In essence, dressing men for those occasions where it is the details that make all the difference.
What I find interesting is that we’ve seen enormous changes in the way men dress, whilst the fundamental principles have remained essentially the same: proportion, quality of materials, craftsmanship and appropriateness.
And perhaps the tuxedo is the purest expression of these principles. There are very few elements, so there’s nothing to hide behind. Everything must be in balance."

What, in your view, is the secret behind the tuxedo’s enduring popularity? And how have your designs changed over the decades to reflect different eras?

"I believe the tuxedo remains relevant because it has become almost an archetype. Over a century of evolution and refinement has cemented it as something instantly recognisable.
Fashion is constantly changing, whilst black tie has a life of its own, separate from trends. Of course, the proportions change over time – the shoulders become softer or more structured, the lapels wider or narrower, the trousers fuller or slimmer – but the fundamental concept remains surprisingly stable.
It’s something I think about a great deal when working with the Turnbull & Asser archive. Modernising doesn’t necessarily mean adding something new. Very often, it means taking something away.
Historically, evening wear was notoriously stiff. The construction was heavier, the silhouettes more formal, and comfort and freedom of movement weren’t necessarily prioritised as they are today. The contemporary man wants elegance, but he also expects freedom.
That’s why I’m interested in weight, balance, construction and ergonomics. Can we make a jacket lighter without losing its structure? Can we make the shoulder line more natural? Can we ensure the trousers move more freely with the body? Can you sit, travel, dine and, quite simply, live in these garments?
These are changes that may be almost imperceptible to the eye, but that is precisely the point. I don’t want modernisation to be visible. I want it to be felt.
And then there are certain things which, in my view, do not need to be changed. The beauty of black tie lies in its simplicity: black or midnight blue contrasting with white, the interplay between wool and silk, the bow tie, the structure of a perfectly tailored dinner shirt. It’s an incredibly limited vocabulary, and that’s precisely what makes it so powerful.
Perhaps that’s also why the tuxedo feels particularly relevant today. We’ve spent years making our attire increasingly casual and seemingly effortless. Today, there’s something newly captivating about the ritual of dressing up for an occasion – in the pleasure of making an effort.
For me, the aim isn’t to reinvent the tuxedo. It’s to ensure it once again becomes an essential point of arrival and yet a fresh starting point for the future of men’s elegance.
Perhaps one day the virtual world will end up overshadowing what we consider real, and the reasons we have for dressing up will gradually disappear. If that were to happen, I like to think and hope that the last garment to become superfluous – and one we would find it hard to do without – would be a midnight blue tuxedo."

Discover the James Bond Collection at the link below and revisit Casino Royale on Prime Video.

DISCOVER THE COLLECTION