Autumn Style Guide: The Art of English Layering
Autumn in England is the true test of a gentleman’s wardrobe. Mist in the morning, sun at noon, drizzle by three o’clock, and a nip in the evening air – all in a single day. To meet the season is to master the art of layering: practical, adaptable, and with just enough panache to suggest you planned it that way.
THE TRENCH COAT & THE TEXTURES OF AUTUMN
Few garments are as entrenched – quite literally – in our history as the trench coat. During the Great War, Turnbull & Asser outfitted British officers with coats made to endure mud and rain. In peacetime, the trench became a uniform of a different kind: one of quiet resilience and refinement.
Today, it remains a canvas for autumn’s textures; corduroy, brushed cotton, and soft cashmere layered beneath its belt. Practical, yes, but never without poetry.
THE CITY GENTLEMAN
Weekends in the city call for ease without surrendering style. Dark denim worn with a cashmere quarter-zip, a quilted gilet, and a caban coat is the uniform of off-duty refinement. It works as well for a stroll through St James’s as it does for a late lunch tucked into a favourite corner table.
The caban, with its naval roots, remains short, sharp, and direct – an overcoat with just enough swagger. Paired with well-chosen denim, it strikes that fine balance: relaxed enough for the weekend, but polished enough that one might still be mistaken for a man of serious intent.
THE COUNTRYSIDE TURN
In the country, the rules shift. Autumn here calls for corduroy trousers, sturdy shirts, and a knit of real substance. Churchill himself favoured thick jumpers at Chartwell – a reminder that knitwear, when done properly, carries both gravitas and charm.
Pair with shoes that can handle a muddy lane, and you’re ready for whatever comes first: a brisk walk or a pint by the fire.
SUNDAY EASE
Autumn sundays belong to the Chelsea shirt and its relaxed companion, the overshirt. Military in origin, civilian in ease, it slips comfortably into the weekend, casual but never careless.
This is dressing at its most quietly confident: the gentleman at rest, with standards intact.
THE GENTLE ART OF ACCESSORIES
Accessories are where the Englishman may let his guard down. Gloves, umbrellas, scarves, socks – the supporting cast that so often steals the scene.
An umbrella once marked the dandy; now it marks the prepared. Gloves retain their centuries-old authority. And socks? Here lies the Englishman’s greatest mischief. A pair of bold Turnbull socks peeking from beneath a sober suit has been known to say more than a tie ever could.
A soft cashmere scarf in autumnal tones completes the picture: warmth with a whisper of sprezzatura, for those with eyes to see.
DRESSING FOR THE SEASON
Layering in autumn is less about hiding from the weather than embracing it. It is readiness disguised as elegance, and elegance disguised as ease.
The gentleman who layers well is never caught off guard, and if his socks happen to clash outrageously with his tie, so much the better. After all, English style has always known when to keep a straight face – and when to let the ankle do the talking.
