In the realm of fine shirtmaking, there is the ordinary, and then there is Turnbull & Asser. For over 140 years, we have refused the expediencies of modern mass production, holding instead to the principles that define the very best. A Turnbull shirt is not merely assembled. It is built, piece by precise piece, in our Gloucester workrooms by craftsmen whose skills have been honed over decades.

Where craft begins

Step inside the factory and the first impression is of quiet industry. A harmony of cutters, machinists, and finishers working in unison. Along the walls, a library of shirting fabric stand in regimented rows: cottons, linens, and silks sourced from the world’s most distinguished mills. Every cloth is chosen for its handle, its drape, its ability to hold a cut and carry a collar. Here, nothing passes without merit.

Thirty-three pieces, every one hand-cut

The making of a Turnbull shirt begins at the cutting board. Paper patterns, drawn from our time-honoured blocks, are laid across the cloth. The cutter’s hand is steady; the blade glides with certainty. Every piece is cut individually, not stacked or guillotined, to ensure absolute accuracy in shape and alignment. This is why patterns match perfectly across seams, and why the finished garment moves with natural ease.

A Turnbull shirt comprises thirty-three individual components. Every one is essential. Every one is cut by hand. Few shirtmakers today can claim the same.

Collars with character

Most modern shirts use fused collars, stiffened with glue to mimic structure. At Turnbull & Asser, collars are built without fusing, allowing them to breathe, flex, and mould to the wearer over time. The result? A collar that sits proud yet comfortable.

Engineering in the details

Our split yoke, cut on the bias, allows the cloth to move more naturally across the shoulders – a subtle improvement that enhances both fit and longevity. At the base of each side seam, our pentagonal gussets reinforce a point of natural strain. They are cut and sewn with precision, their presence a signature of our make.

Then there are the buttons: iridescent mother-of-pearl, ethically sourced, and secured with a lockstitch that resists loosening. These are not decorative tokens, they are chosen for their strength and enduring lustre.

From skilled hands to final press

Sewing, joining, and finishing take place in the hands of machinists who have perfected their craft over years. Seams are straight, stitches balanced, edges clean. Each shirt is pressed by hand, not merely to remove creases, but to set the cloth in its proper form.

Before it leaves Gloucester, a shirt is inspected in its entirety. Only when it meets our exacting standards is it folded, placed in its box or bag, and readied for its journey.

The shirt, perfected

There is no secret shortcut in our process, no concession to speed that compromises quality. This is shirtmaking at its highest standard – a discipline of precision, patience, and pride. It is why a Turnbull shirt fits better, feels better, and endures longer.

When you wear one, you are wearing more than a garment. You are wearing the accumulated mastery of generations.